Pubdate: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 Source: Guardian, The (UK) Copyright: 2000 Guardian Newspapers Limited Contact: 75 Farringdon Road, London EC1R 3ER, England Fax: +44-171-837 4530 Website: http://www.newsunlimited.co.uk/guardian/ Forum: http://www.newsunlimited.co.uk/BBS/News/0,2161,Latest|Topics|3,00.html Author: Duncan Campbell COLOMBIA'S REBEL REPUBLIC Farclandia doesn't officially exist, is run by Marxist guerrillas, and funded by cocaine and kidnap. The rebels say they're creating a new dawn for the poor; the US says it's time to get heavy. Duncan Campbell reports Lucero Palmera loved Braveheart. "What a beautiful story," she said after she had stacked her AK-47 neatly in the corner of the office in the main square of San Vicente del Caguan on a humid Colombian morning. "It was so sad, it made us cry." More than a third of Palmera's 26 years have been spent as a guerrilla with Farc, the 17,000-strong Marxist Revolutionary Army Forces of Colombia, which is engaged in the 36th year of its war with the government. She can little have imagined when she joined as a dedicated teenager that she would one day be sitting in what is effectively the capital city of 24,000sq km of guerrilla territory, an area officially known as the " zona de despeje ", the demilitarised zone, the "laboratory of peace", but unofficially as Farclandia. Foreign ministers from around the world met this month to discuss what the future may hold for Lucero and her compañeros . European governments want to decide what support to give to the Plan Colombia, under which the United States would provide the Colombian government with $1bn of military aid, officially to tackle narco-trafficking. Few are under any illusion that the US's main aim, espoused by drugs czar and cold warrior General Barry McAffrey, is to destroy Farc, much of whose revenue comes from the drug business. The military hardware will take the war to a new plane, prompting talk in Latin America that another Vietnam war is about to start, although a closer political parallel is that of El Salvador where the US waged a similar proxy war in the 80s against leftist guerrillas, at terrible cost to the country. This green territory in the south of Colombia, towards the Amazon basin, was ceded to the guerrillas by the Colombian president, Andres Pastrana, last year as part of an imaginative if desperate bid to broker a peace treaty in a war that has cost more than 36,000 lives so far and has disrupted the country with kidnappings and mayhem. His move led to the resignation of his defence minister and many senior generals. San Vicente del Caguan is a bustling frontier town of 20,000 people. It is a three-hour drive from the city of Florencia. While the first three road blocks are manned by young Colombian army soldiers who have learned to wield a rifle before they have needed to wield a razor, the fourth has a different air: the guard checking papers is a young woman with a Che badge in her combat cap and a bangle on her wrist. This is the entrance to the Farc territory. "There used to be 12 or 13 killings a week here," says Omar Moreno, a teacher having a drink in a bar. "Now there are none. Everyone in is Colombia would like to live like this." Not quite everyone. Miguel Angel Serna is the parish priest, and an outspoken critic of Farc. "Arms are a sign of weakness," he says, "because it means that you don't have the authority without them." Serna says that while there is "less barbarism" in Farclandia than elsewhere in the country, "there is more to peace than just the absence of violence. There has to be freedom of expression, freedom to disagree." The town's mayor, Omar Garcia, agrees. The successful Liberal party candidate in the last pre-Farclandia election, he has the title but not the clout. Although part of the agreement between government and Farc was that the mayor would continue to hold his authority, his 60 civilian police have a Boy Scoutish air to them, wandering the town armed with sticks that look like tentpoles snapped in half, while the young men and women of Farc shoulder their AK-47s and pack a couple of grenades. It is clear where the true power lies. Garcia, a moustached, middle-aged man, has a world-weary air to him. "Things were difficult to start with and they are more difficult now. The guerrillas are continuing to recruit minors, and they carry out the death penalty. We also want to change things in this country, but we want to do it through the institutions and Farc doesn't. But I am able to speak openly. Our differences are political." Other mayors have a less sanguine attitude as Farc has often imposed the death penalty - abolished in Colombia in 1910 - on their number. A further hour's drive up a dirt road and across a swollen muddy Caguan river, past herds of Brahman cattle, is where Farc has set up its headquarters for conducting the slow and rambling peace process "audiences". It is here that Simon Trinidad, a former economics professor and a veteran of 16 years with Farc, expands on what the future may hold for the best-equipped and largest guerrilla army to emerge in Latin America. "We are effectively the opposition now, we are the only ones fighting for social justice," says Trinidad. He says that he does not even want to imagine what will happen if the US military aid, which will include many helicopter gunships, does become a reality. But he scoffs at the notion that this is anti-drugs operation. "All of Colombia knows where the narco-traffickers are," says Trinidad. "They are in Medellin, in Bogota, in Cali. But, no, they are going for the campesinos." Farc is widely accused of narco-trafficking, catering to the US cocaine needs, but it claims it is merely taxing both producers and exporters, as one would with any other business. This, along with kidnapping, is the main source of its funding; it has just unveiled what it calls Law 002, which states that anyone worth $1m must pay a tenth of it in tax or face kidnapping. "Eighteen million people live in extreme poverty here, and war is not going to solve their problems," says Trinidad, whose name, like those of his colleagues, is a nom de guerre . He says that they still have hopes for the slow peace process provided that the government gives them guarantees that they can operate politically, have access to the media and the country's institutions. And here lies the rub. When a group of Colombian guerrillas, the M-19, last laid down their arms and went openly into the political arena, they were almost all killed by the country's active paramilitaries, the so-called self-defence forces, who make up in ruthlessness what they lack in Farc's numbers. It is this failure of the government to break the links between the army and the paramilitaries that is giving the European governments pause. The two major criticisms aimed at Farc are that it recruits children and that it carries out acts of random violence. Amnesty International, in its latest report published only last week, suggests that during Farc's control of the zone it has killed 19 people, six suspected paramilitaries and 13 members of a gnostic sect. Most damaging as far as Farc's perception abroad was concerned was the murder of three human rights workers attached to the U'wa tribe in February 1999. This was, says Trinidad, a "grave error". Some of those responsible have been made to do a form of community service by working on the roads, and others have supposedly been "killed in action". Farc denies involvement in the recent horrific "collar bomb" attack in which a woman was beheaded by explosion because the ransom was too late in coming. "This is a war," says Trinidad, by way of explanation. "Every army in the world gets infiltrated. We did not start this war, but there has to be a just solution to end it. The oligarchy only wants a peace that preserves their privileges." As for bringing children into the guerrilla army, "we recruit from 15. Some of them who want to join we tell to go home. But, for instance, we have a 14-year-old girl from San Vicente who wanted to join. Her mother implored us to send her back. Then it turned out that she worked in a bar and had to be a prostitute for the customers. Now she has respect, a uniform, an education. There are 1m children working in the mines who are being exploited. For many the options are being exploited orliving in the street." The Farc courts are led by a young commandante . "It's mostly disputes about debts and land," says Cesar Martinez as he listens to domestic arguments. The system, seeks reparation, and sees prison as a "repressive instrument of the state". To its members and supporters Farc may seem a sort of open university with guns, led by its legendary leader, Manuel Marulanda, towards a new dawn for the millions of poor. To its detractors the rebels are ruthless idealogues prolonging a war that cannot be won militarily. In the meantime Farclandia, the "laboratory of peace", has been given an extension by the government until the end of the year. War-weary Colombians must hope that something from this experiment works. To contemplate the alternative - an increasing supply of US weapons to the military and from them to an often psychopathic paramilitary - requires a brave heart indeed. - --- MAP posted-by: greg