Pubdate: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 Source: Edmonton Sun (CN AB) Copyright: 2003, Canoe Limited Partnership. Contact: http://www.fyiedmonton.com/htdocs/edmsun.shtml Details: http://www.mapinc.org/media/135 Author: Jason Botchford, Sun Media Bookmark: http://www.mapinc.org/pot.htm (Cannabis) Bookmark: http://www.mapinc.org/decrim.htm (Decrim/Legalization) DUTCH TREAT AMSTERDAM -- It takes about a five-minute walk after arriving at Central Station to realize you've just landed on Fantasy Island. With working girls shaking their thing and beckoning for business in bay windows, shopping that has an eye-opening amount of pornography and the tangy smell of marijuana wafting out every time a coffee-shop door is opened, the anything-goes fantasy is not exactly for everyone. Touring the red light district, the lovely canals that run through it and the historic architecture is akin to studying the brain of an aging rock star who was blessed with a prodigious sense of taste. It's just one small part of one city in the Netherlands, but it has become a flashpoint for the international marijuana debate, a legendary tourist stop which deals marijuana as regularly as Las Vegas dealers end up with blackjack. A city, and a country, where people can wander into certain cafes and buy a small amount of cannabis without fearing arrest or prosecution. A drug policy some say is the most effective in the world. "In Holland, we believe you can do what you want as long as you don't bother anyone else," said Wernard Bruining, who was one of the first to have a coffee shop licensed to sell pot in the 1970s. Back in 1972, the founder of the Mellow Yellow Coffeeshop had no idea he was part of a revolution which would be watched and studied by the rest of the world. "Marijuana won't go away," Bruining said. "I think that one day all of Europe will be like Holland." It's already happening as Great Britain, Belgium and Switzerland, among other countries, are moving toward more liberal treatment of marijuana. In the Netherlands, marijuana is not legal although it would be hard to tell after walking by many of the 300-odd Amsterdam coffee shops which sell pot. 'Coffee shop' in Holland literally means a place which sells weed. Grass is treated separately from hard drugs and is "depenalized," essentially a national tolerance policy which allows people to carry 30 grams and less. The coffee shops can sell customers no more than five grams at a time. It has created a rather indifferent view of pot from the nation's 15 million citizens and one of the lowest weed-smoking rates in the industrialized world. The latest United Nations study on global drug trends shows that the Netherlands wouldn't even crack the top 50 in marijuana consumption. The annual percentage of people older than 15 who smoke pot in the Netherlands is 4.1%. In comparison, 8.9% of Canadians do. "Marijuana is just no big deal here," said Henk Lokhorst, who lives just outside Amsterdam. "It's lost that taboo feel. Most of my friends don't smoke, it's just not a part of their lives and not something you think about. In Canada, there is still that allure, that idea of a forbidden fruit. "The Dutch don't have these coffee shops because they want to smoke pot. They have them for two reasons: one, the system seems to work and two, people are making a lot of money." It's still attractive to tourists. There is no question marijuana is a big draw, right there with prostitutes and van Gogh. The coffee shops are busiest on weekend evenings when the young from all over the world gather to smoke spliffs and test their intellect and pickup lines with one another. Stacy and Lynn are 18 years old and from Ontario. They'd rather their mother not know what they were up to on vacation. To them, Amsterdam is Oz. "You get a strange feeling when you walk into a coffee shop in Amsterdam," said Stacy while in the Green House, a famed, award-winning coffee house. "You're intimidated. For a moment you think you're doing something dirty. And then it goes away and soon it's just part of the culture. You look around and I guarantee you will think 'What is wrong with this? Why does this upset so many people?' " The girls are boggled by the menus they've sifted through: Haze Skunk, Maui Mist, Red Dawn, White Widow, Blueberry Bubblegum, Silver Haze, and the Super Skunk. "And here I thought pot was just pot," Lynn said. The girls spend 15 euros - about $25 Cdn - on some recommended Maui Mist and are set for the night. Coffee-shop owners estimate that for every 20 euros tourists pay for marijuana, they'll spend 200 euros on food and lodging in the city. The goal of the country's drug policy was to emphatically distinguish soft drugs such as marijuana from hard drugs like heroin, cocaine and amphetamines. The coffee shops are designed to be the conduit of that policy. They can only sell to people over 18 years old, are rarely licensed to sell alcohol, can't advertise and can never sell hard drugs. At the Green House, as is the case in most good coffee shops, the pot is strong. On the menu a brand called AK-47 is nicknamed "The Killer." Its tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) level is somewhere between 18%-22%, or about three times higher than the average pot you'll find in Canada. "I wanted the strongest stuff they had and they sold me this for 12 euros," American tourist Eddie Ponika said. "I'm an experienced hitter and this stuff nearly knocked me out. Wow! I'd like to take this home." Close Enough Maybe not quite the desired effect Green House proprietor Arjan was going for, but close enough. "The growing of stronger and different varieties of marijuana was the base in the plan for keeping a lot of people from using hard drugs," Arjan said. "The lack of good cannabis is the start for some people to use hard drugs." Coffee shops are an eclectic mix of bar-like atmospheres as well as Jamaican and eastern-Asian themed rooms. In the Mellow Yellow on a recent visit, five people are there, one a professional reading a local newspaper, a couple on a date and two 20-something tourists, coughing as they roll cone after cone. On the walls are images of Jimi Hendrix, Pink Floyd and Bob Weir. "Marijuana is the only drug I would touch and that's just once a week," said Gries van der Lingen, an Amsterdam salesman. "It's just a peaceful getaway from my workday." Popular coffee shops can make more than one million euros a year. A gram of marijuana costs between 8-15 euros, on average. There are also other "Smart Shops" throughout Amsterdam where you can legally buy magic mushrooms and herbal pills like ephedra and "natural Ecstasy." In the red light district tourists can't walk half a block without being asked to buy cocaine or Ecstasy. The dealers work near cops, half-heartedly trying to conceal what they're doing but the cops don't really care, understanding it would be pointless to take these people to jail. "They sell the hard drugs here to prey on the tourists, that's where the market is," said police officer Adriaan Simonszoon. What seems like an abundance of hard drugs and addicts is deceiving because it is concentrated in one place: the red light district. A study by the Ministry of Health in the Netherlands comparing drug use between its country and the U.S. shows 10.5% of Americans have used cocaine at some point in their lives, which is five times more than in the Netherlands. Among 13 member states of the European Union, the Netherlands ranks 11th in terms of hard-drug addicts. "The vast majority of Dutch cannabis users do not try hard drugs," said Dirk J. Korf of University of Amsterdam Drug Research. Many Opponents Although the coffee-shop system has been effective, there are many opponents who would like to see them closed. It's clear there will be some changes as a new coalition government - led by the Christian Democratic Appeal, a conservative party - takes charge. The coalition has said it would like to shut down half of the 800 coffee shops in the Netherlands. "It would be a sweet thing if we could eventually retract decriminalization," Piet-Hein Donner, the acting Dutch minister of justice, said recently. But he admitted the government was stuck with a political reality of the current landscape and thought it best to give priority to tackling other forms of crime. - --- MAP posted-by: Jackl