Source:   Toronto Star
Contact:    July 12, 1997

                             FIRST OF A SERIES
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   Colombia's rich narcoguerrillas score PR coup

   Government bested in a jungle hellhole where cocaine rules

                              By Linda Diebel
                     Toronto Star Latin American Bureau

   CARTAGENA DE CHAIRA, Colombia  IT'S A WET and gloomy Monday in June,
   the day after this town witnessed the spectacle of Colombian rebels
   handing prisoners back to the army, and everybody is getting drunk.

   Not quietly drunk but mean, stinking, fallingdown drunk.

   It's the rainy season here. Bad enough.

   Moreover, the mood is ugly.

   It shows what cocaine can do to a place.

   This is not a pretty town. It's a godforsaken jungle outpost of
   whorehouses, gin joints and lost people on the Caguan River that lives
   on the cocaine trade.

   Cartagena de Chaira is the base from which big bags of coca paste 
   what remains after coca leaves have been soaked in gasoline for 24
   hours and treated with an assortment of chemicals  are transported
   upriver to Rio Negro, and beyond.

   Cocaine is king here, and the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia
   (FARC) are lords of the court.

   Whatever motivates these Marxist rebels who control the cocaine trade
    and there are wildly divergent views on the morality of
   narcoguerrillas  there are no doubts who runs things.

   The FARC rebels are the richest guerrillas in Colombia, maybe the
   world.

   They've been fighting the longestrunning and deadliest civil war in
   Latin America, and they finance it right here in the Colombian Amazon
   basin.

   ``Forget about your romantic images of Che Guevara,'' says Gabriel
   Rios, an agronomist and expert on Colombia's coke trade.

   ``These are not the idealistic, madeforTV revolutionaries that you
   might know and love from Nicaragua or even El Salvador.''

   Nationwide, the FARC numbers roughly about 12,000 troops, not counting
   a reserve force that may double that number.

   They control the vast jungles and swamps of southern Colombia. The
   region stretches more than 220,000 square kilometres through Putumayo,
   Caqueta, Guaviare, Vaupes and Amazonas, states which border Ecuador,
   Peru and Brazil.

   ``This is our Vietnam,'' says sociologist Alberto Valencia, rector of
   Amazonias University in Florencia, the Caqueta state capital.

   ``In the same way the United States could never win the war in
   Vietnam, the government will never defeat the FARC here in the south.
   The jungle is just too hard, too unforgiving.''

   And, here in the Colombian Amazon, as in other areas, poor campesinos
   are at the bottom of the power grid.

   Although they're not being slaughtered by death squads as in central
   and northern parts of Colombia, they're caught in a savage cycle of
   violence.

   They are the scapegoats.

   It's not poor coca farmers who get rich from cocaine. A campesino has
   to own more than 10 hectares to break even, and more than 70 per cent
   of the farmers are scratching a living from a hectare or two.

   Yet the campesinos are caught between the government and the FARC
   guerrillas and are blamed for the cocaine trade that has made the
   rebels rich. As a result, they're being driven off lands being
   fumigated by a Colombian government that is acting under U.S.
   pressure.

   Washington wants an end to $200 billion (U.S.) worth of cocaine
   imports into the U.S. every year. The Colombians have responded to
   this pressure by cracking down on coca farmers at the bottom.

   It's the same old story, say groups defending the farmers.

   Hit the powerless.

   ``People are living in misery. They don't even have enough money to
   buy bread to feed their children,'' says Maria Inez Gutierrez, an
   advocate for the region's coca farmers. A former coca merchant
   herself, she's fighting fumigation programs that have dumped heavy
   chemicals over vast stretches of the Amazon jungle.

   Here, in Cartagena de Chaira, landless peasants, driven in from the
   jungle by fumigation, or by government bans on gasoline and cement
   (key ingredients in the production of coca paste), fill the streets.

   They add to the general misery of this awful place.

   The ban on alcohol was lifted at midnight, Sunday, June 15.

   The leadership of the FARC southern command had ordered the town dry
   for two days in advance of the prisoner release that day. They didn't
   want the locals drunk to spoil the day when they handed over 70
   hostages to the army in the full glare of the media spotlight.

   The event had been a public relations coup for the FARC.

   The rebels captured the prisoners months before in combat. The largest
   group of hostages was 60 soldiers taken in a nighttime raid last
   August on Las Delicias army base on the Caqueta River. The attack left
   more than 100 soldiers dead.

   For months, the rebels negotiated with a governmentappointed peace
   commission to arrange the hostage release.

   Sunday was their big moment.

   The world was watching.

   Scores of reporters made their way here, flying to the Caqueta capital
   of Florencia, driving four hours on bad road by jeep to Rio Negro,
   then travelling two more hours down the Caguan River, deep into
   guerrillaheld territory.

   FARC checkpoints dotted the Caguan River.

   The next day, newspapers were full of photos of heavily armed rebels
   leading unarmed, and clearly embarrassed, prisoners, out of the jungle
   and over to the Red Cross helicopters that would fly them to safety.

   Dignitaries applauded.

   ``Here, we're returning your little soldiers. So you can take stock of
   the deal  and the war continues,'' was the way the Bogota daily, El
   Tiempo, described FARC's defiant attitude.

   FARC Comandante Joaquin Gomez even made the captured prisoners form
   ranks and salute him, before letting them go.

   ``Don't be misled by the show,'' drug expert Rios had said the day
   before. ``Joaquin can't control his own people any more. The FARC has
   decomposed into drugdealers and thugs. They are contaminated by the
   money. They rule their little republics like religious sects.

   ``Joaquin is an illusion.''

   In a way, he may be right.

   Comandante Joaquin  a.k.a. Milton Toncil  is a sinewy, mustachioed,
   intense MarxistLeninist revolutionary of about 45.

   In another life, he was a zoologist at Amazonia University, a good
   teacher, very professional and ``not particularly interested in
   politics,'' according to those who knew him. A former roommate
   describes him as ``very tidy.''

   In 1980, Toncil won a scholarship to Patrice Lumumba University in
   Moscow and came back a firebrand revolutionary. He disappeared into
   the jungle and reemerged a few years later as Comandante Joaquin.

   ``The armed struggle will always be relevant in a country like
   Colombia,'' he told the thousands of journalists, dignitaries, gawkers
   and sightseers who jammed the town plaza here Sunday.

   ``A circus of clowns,'' was how Colombian Armed Forces Gen. Harold
   Bedoya described the event.

   ``When one sees drug dealers saying they're politicians, that's part
   of the circus,'' the angry general told the weekly newsmagazine
   Semana.

   Bedoya warned the army will retake remote jungles areas that have been
   turned into ``little narcoterrorist republics.''

   Still, the general consensus among Colombians is that Joaquin  as
   well as the absent FARC Supreme Comandante Manuel Marulanda  won the
   public relations battle.

   They gained credibility. The rebels showed they could keep prisoners
   for 10 months in the jungle, abiding by the terms of the Geneva
   Convention; negotiate a deal with government and church officials as
   equals; then slip back into the jungle without a trace.

   The rebels vanished, and the drinking began.

   Today, people here are surly. The town elders of Cartagena de Chaira
   are in no mood to be interviewed. They can barely talk.

   They sit at rickety chairs and stools at outdoor cantinas, flies thick
   as soup over sticky tables, manure still steaming in dark piles at
   their feet, and chug back whole bottles of Chivas Regal like water.

   Mules wander aimlessly down the main street to the docks. Malarial
   mosquitoes wait for sundown.

   Raspachins  pickers  who make up to $300 (U.S.) a day harvesting
   coca leaves, argue drunkenly. They're mostly young men, far from home.

   They blow their money on women and booze, either here or at the jungle
   town of Remolinos de Caguan, a perilous place where the population has
   grown to 60,000 from 6,000 in three years. People boast that Remolinos
   has the biggest whorehouse in the region, with 90 beds.

   People are even testy with the town priest. That's very uncommon in
   Latin America.

   They glance sideways at Father Viciano Vizcardi out of shifty eyes
   when he asks who's around on behalf of a reporter searching for sober
   townsfolk.

   ``Sorry, Father,'' they mumble, and fade away.

   ``Nothing happens in this region that the FARC doesn't know about,''
   says the Italianborn priest. ``They run it like a state, with their
   own rules, their own code of conduct, their own social dynamic. They
   don't want the people getting drunk all the time, and they try to
   educate them in Marxist philosophy.''

   But such discipline holds only while the rebels are around, says
   Vizcardi.

   Otherwise, Cartegena de Chaira reverts to form: savage and volatile.

   This fleabitten town  and seldom has a cliche applied more aptly 
   shows how cocaine has destroyed the social fabric of an entire region,
   says Monsignor Luis Augusto Castro, Catholic bishop in the jungle town
   of San Vicente de Caguan.

   ``The people have paid a terrible price for cocaine. It has created a
   culture of death that has destroyed people's sensitivity towards
   dying. There is so much violence that human life seems cheap  as if
   it's worth nothing,'' says Castro, a member of the peace commission,
   called the Commission of National Reconciliation.

   Castro is a softspoken, humble man, with a gentle smiling face and
   easy manner. It's easy to see why he is respected by both rebels and
   government officials.

   After leaving the jungle, he met in Bogota with President Ernesto
   Samper at the presidential palace to hammer out a plan for immediate
   relief for the region's coca farmers. Only a few million dollars are
   available, but Castro says the gesture is important.

   He is hopeful that Sunday's hostage release represents a small glimmer
   of hope for eventual peace in Colombia.

   He's spent much of the past year negotiating with FARC rebels, and is
   more sympathetic to their motives than others.

   ``I don't accept the line that these are narcoguerrillas, or
   narcoFARC, as they've been called,'' he says. ``The rebels tax the
   production and sale of cocaine in order to pay the costs of their war.
   They would argue classic Marxist ideology that the end justifies the
   means. Of course, the Catholic Church considers that immoral.''

   Others agree.

   ``The FARC is not a cartel; it's simply not true,'' Daniel
   GarciaPena, another peace commission member, said recently.

   ``They don't take this money to buy luxurious houses; the money goes
   to buy arms.''

   Roberto Ramirez, a Florencia sociologist and longtime Communist Party
   stalwart, argues that the rebels didn't conjure up the cocaine trade.
   He says they simply take advantage of an existing fact of economic
   life in order to fund a war for social justice in a country run,
   essentially, by four or five big conglomerates and the drug cartels.

   ``They would tell you, `We're working to achieve our goals, and when
   they are achieved, we will stop,' '' says Ramirez. ``They have a
   financial plan and quotas to fill.''

   Even the FARC raid on Las Delicias last summer was in retaliation for
   the government's fumigation programs that drove peasants off their
   jungle lands and turned them into refugees, he says.

   Ramirez points out that the FARC is not alone in taxing the drug
   trade. The guerrillas levy a tax of roughly 10 per cent on every
   aspect of the business, including coca growers, pickers, the middlemen
   who float through the region on behalf of the big cartels and the
   pilots who take off from illegal runways throughout the jungle.

   Apparently, they waive the rules for poor farmers who can't pay.

   Soldiers take their cut too.

   ``Everybody knows the soldiers are getting rich on cocaine,'' says
   Ramirez, ``and they're not doing it for a cause.''

   For the past year, campesinos have walked hundreds of kilometres in
   protest marches  Las Marchas  over the government fumigation
   programs.

   ``You might say that I am the most evil man in the world,'' says
   Florencia teacher Raul Franisco Doncel, an advocate for the rights of
   coca growers.

   ``That's because I defend cocaine. But, personally, I'm not defending
   the drug trade, but rather the lives of people who have no other way
   to survive,'' he says.

   ``There are 20,000 families in this region who get their sole
   subsistence from the coca leaf. They switched over from yucca, bananas
   and other crops during the boom years of the 1980s and early `90s
   because they saw it was an easier way to survive. Now they have no
   alternative.''

   Cocaine prices are down again. Although the farmer never sees this
   kind of money, a kilo of coke in Colombia goes for just under $1,000.
   That same coke sells for $25,000 and up in the U.S. and Canada.

   ``I'm convinced that repression  fumigation and military occupation 
   is absolutely the wrong way to try and solve the cocaine problem
   here,'' says Doncel.

   ``You just can't blame the peasants because the rebels run the coke
   business.

   ``They're just on the bottom rung of the ladder. This whole country is
   a narcodemocracy. Look for blame there. Everybody is getting rich,
   including the politicians who finance their campaigns with drug money.

   ``And, what about Gringolandia?'' he asks, waving a vague arm in a
   general northern direction towards the United States and Canada.

   ``You consume cocaine at a huge rate. You like our white powder. As
   long as there is such a big demand, there will be coke production. So,
   I ask again, `Why should the poor coca farmers of Colombia pay for the
   sins of the world?' ''

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   Tomorrow: Colombia's refugees, caught between guerrillas and the
   government.