Pubdate: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 Source: Wisconsin State Journal (WI) Contact: http://www.madison.com/ Copyright: Madison Newspapers, Inc. 1998 AN EXPERIMENT GONE AWRY; HALF OF STATE'S 400 BREWERIES SUCCUMBED TO PROHIBITION Given Wisconsin's reputation for both making and consuming alcoholic beverages, it's hard to imagine the days of Prohibition. But from 1920 through 1933 it was illegal in the United States to either manufacture or sell any beverage with more than 0.5 percent alcohol. Prohibition was the law of the land until it was lifted 65 years ago on Dec. 5, 1933. Given Milwaukee's large German population at the time, the passage of the 18th Amendment was greeted with less than unanimous enthusiasm in Wisconsin. Not only was beer a favorite beverage, brewing had become the state's fifth largest industry, providing steady employment for hundreds of immigrant workers. Prohibition put the brakes on this flourishing industry, along with the cultivation of malting barley as a cash crop in Wisconsin. But the issue was hardly clear-cut. Prohibition brought to the surface some of the great divisions that had developed both nationally and in the state during the second half of the 19th century - Protestant Yankee churches vs. "immigrant" churches and rural vs. urban values. Some ethnic groups, most notably the Norwegians, were identified as ardent "drys." Because the issue cut so deeply across party, ethnic and social lines, Wisconsin Sen. Robert La Follette refused to deal with it, saying it was a political issue - which it most certainly was. But while Wisconsinites were split over the issue of "demon rum," there is little question of Prohibition's impact on the brewing industry. More than 400 commercial breweries were in operation in Wisconsin before Prohibition, but fewer than half reopened. "The reason so many breweries never came back is that no one had any way of knowing how long Prohibition would last," says Madison writer Jerry Apps, author of "Breweries of Wisconsin." Some of the brewers that were able to survive Prohibition evolved into the true giants of the Wisconsin beer industry: Schlitz, Pabst and Miller of Milwaukee and G. Heileman in La Crosse. Some breweries managed to stay in business by manufacturing their own malt and selling to home brewers, who worked around Prohibition by fermenting in their basements or cellars. Pabst, in particular, created a healthy demand for its malted barley by openly marketing to the home brewers. Pabst also branched into other areas, including opening a large dairy operation in Oconomowoc known as Pabst Farms. Others switched to bottling soft drinks. For example, Gray's Brewing Co. in Janesville concentrated its efforts on making soft drinks and has only recently gotten back into the beer business, riding the microbrewing craze. Ironically, however, Prohibition did little to reduce the amount of alcohol consumed by Wisconsinites. "One chap I interviewed said Prohibition didn't slow down drinking at all, it actually increased it," says Apps. Thirsty Wisconsin residents either made their own beer or liquor, purchased it from bootleggers or brought it across the border in Canada. Stills were common, hidden away in backwoods hollows where potatoes, corn or grains were fermented into moonshine whiskey. Much of this activity, of course, was done with full knowledge of law enforcement officials, who were often the first to line up when a new supply was tapped. "I heard one story about a town upstate where the county sheriff used to call ahead and warn everybody at the speakeasy that he was on his way," says Apps. Yet despite the violations, Prohibition arose from a deep and sincere belief of many Americans that alcohol was driving the country to ruin. These mostly white Protestants, whose ancestors were among the early settlers, feared that drinking, especially among the millions of newly arriving immigrants, was a true threat to law and order. And there was some evidence to support that belief. In the large cities, including Milwaukee, slum conditions were so severe that men went to saloons to escape the depressing reality of home life. The hardworking, nondrinking, church-going farmers and business people in the rural districts and smaller communities began to think of the cities as citadels of sin - and blamed alcohol. Groups like the Woman's Christian Temperance Union grew out of this belief. Among the early founders of the WCTU was Wisconsinite Frances Willard, the daughter of a Janesville area livestock farmer who became an internationally recognized figure for her support of women's rights. (Willard died in 1891, some 30 years before Prohibition or national women's suffrage.) Eventually the struggle between "wets" and "drys" aggravated the struggle between rural and immigrant America, between established Protestants and Catholics and Jews. It had also given rise to the bootlegging industry, creating famous gangsters such as Al Capone and Johnnie Torrio, who created the model for gangland organization. Prohibition finally ended in 1933 when the nation's most influential people, as well as the general public, acknowledged it had failed. - --- Checked-by: Rich O'Grady